Belgium: the Land of Beer and Chocolate

After Gilles’ parents returned to Canada, we traveled to Belgium to ring in the New Year and enjoy plenty of chocolate, beer, and waffles. Belgium was not a country that we were previously interested in visiting, but due to its proximity to us and rave reviews from friends, we decided to give it a try. As usual, we were not disappointed by what we saw! We split our time between Brussels (the capital) and the quaint medieval town of Bruges.

The highlight for many tourists visiting Belgium is sampling the beer and chocolate, two culinary treasures that the Belge have been renowned for for centuries. There are over 400 different types of Belgian beers; remarkably each one has its own glass. The main classes of beer are: white/witbier, trappist, abbey, lambic (unique to Belgium), ales, and seasonal beers for Christmas-time. Most restaurants serve ten to twenty different beers, but we were in two whose menu listed over 400 varieties! Imagine not only stocking that many different beers, but subsequently having to stock that many different glasses! We managed to try 21 different beers, including one that smelled like a blueberry strawberry shortcake doll I had as a child, and one that smelled like cherry lifesavers. Some of the beers we tried were reminiscent of ones I have had from the Quebec brewery Unibroue. We liked all but one or two of the beers that we tried, not a bad record!

Mmmmm, chocolate! While in Belgium we felt like Homer Simpson in his ‘Land of Chocolate’ fantasy. I am sure we had chocolate three times daily, and if we were ever running out of supplies, there was guaranteed to be a chocolate shop only a few steps away. We learned about the history of chocolate in the chocolate museum in Bruges, then marched straight over to the nearest chocolate shop for more goodies. We sampled chocolate from about seven different shops; our favourites were Dumon, Neuhaus, and Pierre Marcolini. The Marcolini shop looked more like a fancy jewelry store than a chocolate shop. His chocolates were well worth the hefty price and the long line. We returned home with almost 1 Kg of pralines (filled chocolates, a Belgian invention), and are using them to stave off the resultant chocolate hangover. As a side note, in our well researched chocolate opinion, Bernard Callebaut, the Belgian chocolatier who has set up shop in Calgary, offers a product that rivals what we tasted in Belgium.

A couple of additional notes about Belgian cuisine: they consider fries an essential part of any meal, they have the best mussels we have ever eaten (combined with fries = moules frites), and the waffles are incredible!

We did much more in Belgium than eat and drink, but chocolate and beer is much easier to describe than what we saw. Bruges had a few seasonal sites set up that we took part in: an amazing ice sculpture display inside a cooled tent. It included an ice bar with shotglasses made of ice, and an ice slide that chilled our bums as we slid down. There was an outdoor skating rink in the main town square. Most people do not learn how to skate here, so we spent more time dodging adults and children on their backsides than we did actually skating, but it was fun nonetheless!

A French Christmas

After three wonderful days in Paris, Gilles, his parents, and I flew down to Pau. As soon as we landed we rushed to Les Halles, the morning market, to stock up on food for the coming days. Walking through a large French food market is a great cultural experience, and our guests were enthralled by the countless cheese vendors, butchers, olive stands, fishmongers, traiteurs, and many more. We picked up numerous cheeses, pâtés, foie gras, olives, fruit and vegetables, then rushed home for a French lunch in the sunny backyard.

That was not the end of our food errands. On Christmas Eve we picked up more supplies for the coming feasts. We visited our favourite poissonerie (fishmonger) for an essential component to any French Christmas: oysters. There are several varieties, each available in three or four sizes. The French buy them by the crate, but we opted for a much smaller quantity of 18 to enjoy before seafood chowder on Christmas Eve. Next, we visited our favourite chicken guy. He sets up a traveling rotisserie in the parking lot of a nearby bakery every Sunday, and we visit him almost weekly. His chickens are incredible (and I never thought I would say that about a chicken), so we chose to buy our chapon from him this year. Then, off to the bakery to pick up our pre-ordered bûche de noël and our daily bread. I am sure that Nancy and Bernard would say that running food errands was one of their favourite French activities!

Amongst all the shopping and subsequent eating, we did manage to fit in a few day trips. As with most of our guests, we ventured to two coastal villages: France's St Jean de Luz and Spain's San Sebastian. The latter includes the much loved activity of visiting tapas bars. We also visited Lourdes, Toulouse, and the medieval village of Carcassonne.

Their visit seemed to fly by, and before we knew it we were dropping them off at the airport. It was their first Christmas away from home, and while there were some unfamiliar aspects, they loved experiencing some new traditions. Thanks for a wonderful time!

Wonderful Paris

Happy New Year! We had a busy holiday season here in France. Now that real life has recommenced I will get caught up on some blogging.

Gilles’ parents joined us for Christmas this year. It was their first trip to Europe, so everything was new and exciting. We met them in Paris the morning they arrived, then spent three days touring that wonderful city before voyaging down to Pau.

I love Paris anytime of the year, but there is something special in the air in December. The ‘City of Lights’ is even more illuminated than usual, there are amazing window displays at the large department stores, and only the best food is on the menu. We earned our food indulgences by walking all day long. Paris is best seen on foot, and we did our best to keep moving, fitting in as many sights as possible in three days.

Gilles and I have explored Paris several times in the past year, and have gotten to know some excellent, affordable, and non-touristy restaurants. We love venturing into Paris’ neighbourhoods to find the best eats, and Gilles’ parents were more than willing to join us. We also fit in some of Paris’ best sweet treats: macarons, roasted chestnuts, and street crèpes, which Gilles refused to let us sit for, claiming all street food tastes better when standing. For those who are not familiar with macarons, they are a famous Parisian pastry consisting of two meringue cookies held together sandwich-like with a creamy filling. We waited in lengthy lines at two famous macarons shops: Ladurée and Pierre Hermé. Ladurée tends to stick with traditional flavours (ie raspberry, lemon, chocolate), while Pierre Hermé is much more adventurous. There we purchased macarons containing foie gras (surprisingly good), truffles (we were not fans), and fleur de sel (delicious combined with caramel).

We left Paris happy: with heads full of history facts and bellies full of goodies. Next, on to Pau for Christmas.

Snowshoeing Success

Gilles and I went on our first snowshoeing trip in the Pyrénées a couple of weeks ago. I was almost ready to write-off the Pyrénées as our past excursions have been disappointing. I couldn’t help compare this mountain range to Canada’s Rocky Mountains, which we love dearly. But the Pyrénées, though beautiful in their own way, are not the Rockies. So as we drove to our destination on the Spanish border with the temperature hovering around ten degrees, I tried to remain open-minded, but was doubtful we would have much success.

As our little car with summer tires (chains in the trunk) climbed the windy roads, the temperature slowly dropped to two degrees and when we reached our destination there was actually snow! Snow, and many Spaniards and French people who had the same idea as us. In past snowshoeing trips, our group had been alone in the great outdoors. I felt like a pioneer, deciding on a route, trudging through mounds of fresh snow. But I am not comparing, right? So we buried some snow beer (some things never change), and strapped on our snowshoes. But our top-of-the-line snowshoes ideal for blazing trails, steep climbs, and icy conditions looked out of place in this landscape. The people around us were wearing small plastic snowshoes, not much larger than their boots. Nevertheless, we set out to the admittedly beautiful pass for some fun in the snow. The area was very large so we were able to separate ourselves from others and do our own thing. We finished our venture by building a snowman. We felt like two kids playing in the snow, and it was great!

One fun aspect to a Pyrénées trip that cannot be had in Alberta is cross-border shopping. At the border, 1750 m above sea level, there are several Spanish bars and grocery stores that cater to the French who cross into Spain for cheaper gas, cigarettes, alcohol, and food. We ventured over and stocked up on chorizo sausage and canned octopus (don’t ask). Further down on the French side was a cheese vendor set up on the side of the road. So, we stopped and bought some of the wonderful alpine cheeses. We just needed to add some bread and wine and we had a perfect post-snowshoe supper!

Saint Nicolas Day

I promised to write about French holidays, so I am going to include St Nicolas day. It is only celebrated in the North-Eastern parts of France, around Lille and Strasbourg, but is observed in many other European countries (Belgium, Netherlands, Hungary,…). First, an explanation of saint days.

Most French would not consider themselves religious. The downfall of Catholicism in France began with the French Revolution, which led to a separation of church and state. Many of the holidays currently observed have religious origins, but the original purpose is long forgotten. Most of the once religious holidays are now a reason to get together as a family and eat.

One religious practice that does persist to this day is the recognition of saint days. Every day of the calendar year has a saint or sainte associated with it. Until the early 1970’s, all children born in France had to be given one of these names. Today the naming rules are not so strict, but the French still recognize the saint of the day. For example, today is Sainte Barbara day, which means it is the ‘fête’ of all women named Barbara. This is in contrast to one’s birthday, which is called an ‘anniversaire’. On your saint day, people wish you a ‘bonne fête’, and you will receive a cake and small presents.

December 6 is St Nicolas day. He is the guy that inspired the creation of our Santa Claus. On Dec 6, he arrives to give children small gifts, often of fruit and candy. In Amsterdam, he arrives via boat and children wait at the port for his arrival. He asks the kids if they have been good, and then proceeds to give them treats. The method of St Nicolas’ arrival varies by country, but regardless of location, the day is finished off with a big family supper. The countries that celebrate St Nicolas day also celebrate Christmas, but no mysterious man arrives to deliver presents to children on this day. Any gifts that kids receive on Christmas are from family.

Ethnic Foods

I always chuckle to myself as I walk down the ethnic food section of the grocery store. The selection is very small, which is not surprising because the French like French food. Most ethnic restaurants that we have tried have adapted their country’s food to satisfy the French palate. Our favourite pizza restaurant tops their pizzas with French emmental, crème fraîche, and a raw egg. At the local Indian restaurant we received the blandest curries that we have ever eating. And in case you are not a connoisseur of Indian cuisine, bland and curry should never be used in the same sentence. Even the Blue Elephant, our favourite Thai restaurant in Paris, has scaled back the heat to satisfy the French’s wimpy tastes. The ‘three elephant’ dishes (elephants being the indicator of heat), only cause a mild tingling sensation in our mouths.

In the ethnic food section in the grocery store there are the typical Chinese, Thai, and Japanese items that also line the ethnic food aisle in Canada. But what amuses me are what they consider ‘ethnic’ here, but are commonplace at home. Here are some examples, most at ridiculously high prices:

-Tiny jars of cranberry sauce
-BBQ sauce
-Small jars of a mysterious brand of peanut butter
-Salsa
-Worcestershire sauce
-Fake maple syrup
-Can beans
-Marshmallow Fluff (!)
-English cream crackers (the only crackers to be found in the grocery store)

The list is very interesting, but perhaps what is most intriguing is not what is available, but what is not available. Who decided which items to import? I am unable to buy yellow mustard, baking powder, molasses, chili powder, or chocolate chips, but I can buy Marshmallow Fluff?!

French Holidays

I often get asked whether the same holidays are celebrated in France as in Canada. And if so, if they are celebrated in the same manner. So I thought I would start writing an entry describing each of the French holidays as they take place. I'll include statutory and non-statutory holidays, if the latter involves something interesting. I will start with le jour d'Armistice, since it was only last week.

In France, Armistice Day is a public holiday. As is the case with most statutory holidays, large grocery stores remain open and smaller businesses are closed. And as is the case 365 days/year, the boulangeries remain open. A day cannot pass without fresh bread!

Unlike the anglo-saxon tradition (yes, the French still call us anglo-saxons), November 11 strictly celebrates the end of the first world war. France's participation in other wars is not commemorated on this day, yet as there are no WWI veterans remaining in France, there is talk of expanding this practice. Ceremonies are held at large war memorials, usually at the location of battles (ex. Verdun). There are not ceremonies held throughout France, as is the case in Canada. Poppies are not worn, despite the fact that the famous poppy fields are in France and Belgium. In fact, very little is made of Armistice Day in most of France. Maybe that will change if/when they anglo-saxonize the holiday. And yes, I just turned the term anglo-saxon into a verb....

A Visitor + Treats = a Good Week!

This week we had a visit from an old friend from home. Kimberly London was a great friend during our days at Mt Allison and an old roommate of mine. She knew us both before Gilles and I started dating. In fact, during our reminiscing we recalled that she met Gilles before she met me. We have done a poor job of keeping in touch with Kim during the last few years, so her visit gave us the chance to get caught up. And a visitor from home always means treats for us. Kim graciously filled her suitcase up with licorice, peanut butter, and raincoast crisps for us. Yummy! And the empty space meant she could buy more treats in France to bring back with her.

She split her time in France between here and Paris, where she has another friend. She had never been to Europe, and really enjoyed her first trip. She was very brave and tried several foods outside of her comfort zone, including tartare, escargots, and veal liver. I was very proud of her willingness to try new things.

The visitor count is up to ten people, with more guests scheduled to arrive in one month. I love our traveling friends and family!

Some of our Favourite Things, Italian Style

Oh Italy! I don't think I could ever tire of travel in Italy. We recently spent two nights in Rome and three nights in Florence. The two main purposes of the trip were for Gilles to get a Gabonese visa in Rome and to buy a watch in Florence. But we managed to also fit in plenty of eating, sightseeing, and shopping. So here is a list of some of our favourite Italian things (plus Gilles' most hated thing):

1. Gelato. And Florence is the top gelato town. There was a gelato shop on every corner, beautifully displaying their product in heaped mounds topped with the main flavour ingredient. While these presentations are pretty, they usually indicate that the gelato is factory produced (with added colour and artificial flavours) rather than artisanaly made. I did some pre-trip homework and found four gelato shops in Florence that make their product in-house using only natural ingredients. We tried all four, and they were perhaps the best gelato that we have ever had in Italy. And that is a big statement considering how much gelato we ate during our six week trip to Italy last year. We named a little shop called Vestri as our top shop in Florence.

2. Nutella. Gilles swears that Italian Nutella is better than French and Canadian Nutella. You may think he is crazy, but he has eaten enough Nutella to be an expert.

3. Campari Soda Cocktails. My favourite cocktail is nearly impossible to get elsewhere, but commonplace in Italy.

4. Italians for their fashion sense. They are amazing to watch.

5. Italians for their craziness. The further south one goes, the more chaotic things get. Coming from conservative countries like Canada and France, it is fun to watch such animated people.

6. Free snacks with drinks. A necessity after a full afternoon of walking. At 6 PM it is too early to eat supper, so these little treats really hit the spot.

7. The food. We love French food, but for us it is hard to beat Italian cuisine. The French win out on cheese, bread, and maybe wine, but for everything else, head to Italy. It's simple, fresh, and delicious.

And now for the hated thing: paying to get into a church. And the Catholics know how to get the most money out of tourists, charging more than non-religious sights for equivalent viewings. For example, we paid 12 euros to enter one church to see a single famous painting, and 12 euros to enter the Uffizi gallery, a large museum containing many famous paintings. To appreciate how angry this makes Gilles, refer to photo above. That's not a happy tourist!

Dream Come True

As most of you probably know, Gilles is a lover of watches. Specifically, top-quality, handmade watches. He marvels at the craftsmanship and science of these time pieces. For years he has been saving money and researching watches to determine which watch to buy. Last week, the day finally arrived to make the big purchase.

After much research and consideration, he decided he wanted a Panerai watch. They are an Italian company, whose watches are now made in Switzerland. Last week we paid a visit to their flagship store in Florence to buy the watch. It was a special experience for Gilles. After buying the watch, we got to see their private museum containing several watches that have been made since the company was founded in 1860. It topped off a perfect afternoon of shopping in beautiful Florence.